Backstage at Maki Oh S/S14
We gotta give it to James Vincent. The man is always on point. At tonight’s Maki Oh NYFW presentation, the TEMPTU PRO Key Artist took the idea of the African Shea Tree, with its renowned healing and nurturing powers, and made it into living, breathing art through long gradients of rich color on the neck, sculpted cheeks and babydoll eyes. In the midst of backstage chaos, we picked his brain about the look, makeup secrets, and his craziest story.
I created the look for Maki Oh by taking the designers ideas and inspiration of a beautiful glowing skin, a black eye liner and the concept of a black line on the body to show the strength of women. I wanted to make the idea modern and a little more organic. I loved the idea of using TEMPTU S/B Bronzer and S/B Highlighter both under and on top of the foundation to give the skin the effect that it is truly glowing from underneath. I contoured and sculpted with S/B foundation and bulked up the brow a bit with TEMPTU Airbrow. Adding in a bold black shading to the eyes and neck with TEMPTU S/B Contour Kit gave me the strong sense of shadow and structure that I wanted but still maintained a feminine edge.
Why is TEMPTU great/easy to use for this look?
TEMPTU is perfect for the look because the range of color and product available allows for unlimited possibility in bringing across the designers vision. Airbrush application is ideal for giving the audience an understanding of the strength of women by juxtaposing strong color and hard edge against beautiful blending and soft lines. TEMPTU’s exemplary color range also allows me to work with international designers and models from all over the world without the shade limitations that come along with some brands.
What was your experience like working with Maki Oh?
I love working with the Maki Oh team because they have so much integrity and a true understanding of the power and responsibility that comes with designing for today’s woman. They truly understand their client and today’s woman.
This look is a simple one for anyone to recreate. Sheer glowing foundation and a strong brow set the stage for a look that fits into any situation. The bold black line at the lash line and drawn up and out towards the temple can be tamed down for day time and taken right into the club at night and every woman will want to use the S/B Highlighter and Contour shades to sculpt drama and deliver life and light to their face playing up every face and allowing cheekbones to really pop.
Do you have an all-time favorite makeup look?
I think I always lean towards the Valley of the Dolls or Carnaby Street, Swinging London look of the sixties. The bold, black eye with nude, never there lip is a favorite of mine. I also love Charlies Angels Malibu girl chic for timeless natural and I am most identifies with Rock. I love a soft look with a natural edge. I have worked with everyone from LAdy Gaga to Joan Jett and Courtney Love and I love the power of makeup for the women in music.
Iced Coffee keeps me going backstage and the knowledge that I am surrounded by some of the best in the business. I prefer a team of artists that are better than me and have ambition to a team of people I can boss around and control. I love to have a team where we work together and each artist gets to really shine.
Any crazy/funny backstage stories?
I guess the craziest backstage for me would have been back when I started and was assisting in the 90s. There was something so amazing about assisting a Kevyn Aucoin or a Linda Cantello and having a chance to work on Kate Moss or Naomi while they were still walking. It was such a fun time for fashion. As far as crazy I think a show I keyed in Miami where the models were walking down a runway and then diving into the pool at the Raleigh and walking up the other end and still had to look flawless was a blast but a challenge. Understanding how we could combine Aqua and Dura products with S/B for durability and wearability allowed me to design my makeup look without compromise.
What have been some particularly memorable or personal favorite looks you’ve created during fashion weeks past?
I think the tattoo looks I created with TEMPTU for LA designer Ashton Michael stands out as one of my favorites. Now we have so many tattooed models walking the runway but a few seasons ago it was a rarity and TEMPTU really allowed me to deliver my vision to the audience and the designer. I also love a look I did for Ashley Paige where my inspiration was the 1920s and the models needed to look like ghosts. It was difficult because it was swimwear so all the girls were so tan. We had to airbrush entire bodies to look ethereal and still have them look even and believable.
Do not be afraid to play with a few shades. Women have gotten caught up in the consumer mentality that there is going to be one foundation that fits them perfectly. I love the way skin looks when you combine two or three foundation shades to give highlight, warmth and depth. Adding a foundation that is two shades darker than your foundation on to the areas where sun hits the face and collarbone give the most amazing warmth to the skin. I really love the pods for this as it makes it so easy for anyone to airbrush.
If you had to give one piece of beauty advice to all women, what would it be?
Makeup should not be about hiding and concealing and focusing on negative things. Makeup should be expressive and individual and allow you to focus on the features you love most. Be yourself and do not be afraid to play. It is just makeup. If you don’t like it it washes off.